Following the passing of the late Virgil Abloh last December, Off-White has been mindful not to rush into its next, post-Abloh chapter, and rightfully so. But the show, as ever, must go on, and in April, the Italian luxury label tapped Ib Kamara as Off-White’s new art and image director. Now, with Spring 2023, the brand seems ready to officially welcome its new era that’s on “the cusp of something new,” according to the fashion house.
On Thursday evening in Paris, Kamara’s debut collection for Off-White continued to uplift Abloh’s vision for the label since he first launched it in 2012, creating what was sure to be a moving experience for its invited attendees. While attendees trickled their way to their seats, a large crowd of fans waited outside of the venue, hoping to catch glimpses of the show’s upcoming collection and its A-list guests; some even made their way inside.
Ahead of the presentation, a giant cube dominated the center of the stage, casting pre-recorded visuals of models dressed in (literally) head-to-toe blue as they lounged around doorways in front of a sunlit sky background. The 20-minute showcase soon began, with performers dressed in skin-tight suits and their faces painted in a deep rich blue, the shade of the evening, drawing a near-uncanny resemblance to that of Blue Man Group. It being a runway show, models eventually emerged to circle the gigantic block, vibing out to instrumental percussionists in the background.
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For both women’s and men’s presentations this season, Off-White spotlighted a slew of pieces coming in colorways solely comprised of black, white and blue. Some standout styles featured lightweight crochet knits and bikercore pleather pieces, though mini skirts will still reign as spring’s most sought-after trend. Frilly lace tops, sheer mesh fabrics and midriff-baring cutouts offered an airy contrast, especially when paired with structured trousers. As spring is often dubbed a season of rebirth, the 55-piece collection came studded with floral motifs. Spooky Season is a year-long affair, apparently, as our personal favorite design happened to be the collection’s oversized suited looks, with blazers coming with skeletal embroidery.
Off-White’s accessories, meanwhile, were minimal, yet mighty. While other designers have opted for oversized totes of late, the collection sticks with micro-mini bags adorned with the brand’s signature logo embellishment. Some models were dressed in fitting Spandex hoods adorned with floor-length strings, also showing coveted footwear like chunky high-top sneakers, colorblock sandals and decked-out coil mules.
As expected from a show like Off-White, celebrities were spotted sitting front and center for the collection’s unveiling, including the ranks of supermodel Naomi Campbell and singer Erykah Badu seated right beside each other. Multifaceted star Halle Bailey was also in attendance, along with stars like “Gossip Girl”‘s Evan Mock, models Winnie Harlow and Anok Yai, Korean musician and actor Sandara Park, internet star Rickey Thompson, “Emily in Paris“‘s Ashley Park – among others.
See Off-White’s Spring 2023 runway show in more detail, below.